The Little Citrus that Could
Philippine Lemon < Calamansi >
At the turn of the millennium, our family settled in a home in Union City, California. There, we planted our own calamansi tree. Starting as a two-foot ornamental shrub, it grew into a 25-foot evergreen, providing shade, abundant fruit, and beauty to the northeast corner of our backyard. Nourished by the sandy loam and bathed in sunlight, our calamansi tree flourished. Its branches extend into our gazebo, allowing the fruits to hang temptingly close to our patio table. It seemed to coax us to pluck its citrus gems, to enliven our pancit with a spritz of juice or refresh ourselves on hot summer days with calamondinade.
The calamansi tree offers not only convenience but also a reassuring sense of familiarity, like that of a dear friend. It adds a touch of joy to our morning coffee or lazy afternoon tea. In, out, and around it, chirping finches, scurrying squirrels, flitting hummingbirds, and buzzing yellow jackets transfixes us in the moment. Its vibrant foliage glistens with dew. Its fruits, at various stages of ripeness, adorn the branches in shades of dark green, golden yellow, and deep orange. The air permeates with a heady citrus fragrance.
Versatile and enchanting, the tree’s fruit also serves many practical purposes and offers numerous health benefits. In fact, it is a staple in Philippine cuisine. We use it in our barbecue marinade, to sour our sinigang or bistek, to perk up our pancit, and to refresh ourselves. A stain on your white blouse? Squirt a little of calamansi juice on it, sprinkle some salt, and lay it on a galvanized iron sheet under the unforgiving sun, just as we used to do back in the day. Dealing with dandruff or aiming for a lighter hair color? Calamansi can be your shampoo. Astringent to oily skin, lightener of age spots and acne scars, enhancer of singing voice, these are just a few of the benefits this little citrus offers. Its health benefits are numerous, including aiding digestion, fighting infections, promoting weight loss, flushing out toxins, relieving sore throats, and reducing inflammation.
It is worth noting that calamansi has an uncanny ability to identify people with Filipino roots. A study conducted by the University of Nottingham’s Sensory Science Centre, involving 223 volunteers, explored the correlation between ethnicity (Caucasian vs. Asian) and taste perception. Participants were given various taste solutions to assess their perception of taste intensity.The study revealed that Asians experience taste more acutely, with heightened sensitivity to sour and metallic flavors compared to Caucasians.
Our two American-born grandchildren, who are 50% Filipino, 25% German, and 25% Norwegian, instinctively took to Filipino cuisine. Whenever we serve their favorite dish, tamarind sinigang, they always request a side dip of calamansi juice. After soaking their steamed rice in the tangy sinigang broth, they add a generous spoonful of the dip, layering sour upon sour in a way that only a Filipino palate would truly appreciate. The expression 'ang asim ng mukha' (sourpuss) is a common phrase in the Filipino lexicon.
I was introduced to calamansi (Citrofortunella microcarpa) at a young age when I overheard my Aunt Biven mistakenly refer to a basket of small green globes on her kitchen counter as kumquats. She was partially mistaken, as calamansi's lineage can be traced back to both kumquat and mandarin orange. Hybridized calamansi thrives in the warm tropical climes of Southeast Asia and Southern China but it is in the Philippines where the people took a special liking to its sour taste. Beyond the Philippines, people call it calamondin, Panama lemon, musk lemon, or Philippine lime.
Calamansi consumption has remained largely domestic, exported only in processed forms like bottled or canned juices and condiments like Toyomansi or Patismansi for the Filipino diaspora. Although this demand is largely limited to local markets, it sustains the livelihoods of farmworkers who grow calamansi as a cash crop. In the U.S., fresh calamansi—cultivated by Filipino farmers in California's Central Valley, Florida, and Hawaii—can be found at farmers' markets but are not common enough to warrant a SKU (stock-keeping unit) in supermarkets. Filipino immigrants have seen the wisdom in planting a calamansi tree in their backyards, first as an ornamental plant, later as a prolific source for souring their favorite dishes.
Wherever a calamansi sapling takes root and thrives, it nurtures goodwill among visiting friends who eagerly gather its fruits to bring home. At my house, attending a party often includes a calamansi-picking activity for my guests. Out-of-state relatives and friends ask me to air-ship a shoebox full of them, never mind that shipping costs a lot more than what is being shipped. Above all, friendships begin or flourish with quart-sized Ziploc bags filled with calamansi, shared generously with neighbors and even complete strangers.
Such bountiful gifts from the little citrus that could!
